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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.